I can not say that I saw what Cambodia is during my short trip there in 2007. I only stayed there 3 days and I've been in Siem Reap to visit the temples of Angkor. But I keep a wonderful memory of this days. I really advice you to not just visit the main temple. There are about twenty temples in the area and all worth visiting.
They are in the midst of nature, sometimes really in the forest with trees that are trying to find a way among the stones. There is something peacefull, calm in this place. As soon as you visit the other temples than Angkor Wat, there are often only few tourists. Most tour operators only propose the main temple and sometimes a Banteay Srei visit. The roads to the orange earth, nature, temples, the kind of people ... I look forward to being back in Cambodia in a less touristic mode.